Emollients are an essential component of skincare formulations, contributing to the overall sensory experience and skin conditioning properties. Selecting the right emollients is crucial for achieving superior product performance and consumer satisfaction. Here are a few key factors to consider when choosing emollients for skincare formulations:
1. Choose and oil that is Compatibility with the Skin Type you are Formulating for:
When selecting emollients, it’s important to consider the target skin type and the compatibility of the emollients with different skin conditions. For example, lightweight emollients such as Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone are suitable for oily or acne-prone skin, while richer emollients like shea butter are better suited for dry or mature skin.
Pro Tip: When naturalness is important, go for a light feel esters like Coco Caprylate Caprate in place of Silicones.
2. Use Oils to Create Complex and Pleasant Textures
Emollients play a significant role in the sensory experience of skincare products. The texture, spreadability, and after-feel of the product are influenced by the choice of emollients. Formulators should assess the sensory attributes of emollients such as glide (the speed at which it spread on the skin), cushion (how heavy it feels during rubbing), slip, and after skin feel to ensure that the end product delivers a pleasant and luxurious application experience.
Pro Tip: Use at least 3 oils from light – heavy to create complex textures your customers will appreciate. Use a higher input of the prevailing sensory experience you would like users to feel
3. Always Consider how your Selection affects the Stability and Shelf Life of the Final Product:
The stability of emollients in formulations is crucial for maintaining product integrity and efficacy over time. Consider the susceptibility of emollients to oxidation, hydrolysis, or rancidity, especially in natural or organic formulations. Antioxidants or chelating agents may be necessary to enhance the stability of certain emollients and extend the shelf life of the final product.
Pro Tip: Use low inputs of oils with a short shelf life and higher inputs of oils with a longer shelf life. Always use an antioxidant (and a chelator where it applies) when formulating with natural oils)
In conclusion, the selection of emollients for skincare formulations requires careful consideration of skin type, sensory properties, stability, compatibility, regulations, and sustainability. By prioritizing these factors, formulators can create skincare products that deliver exceptional sensory experiences and optimal skin conditioning benefits.
A cross-section of oils and their texture attributes
Cacay oil (Natural) – dry and light skin feel. Reduces tackiness in products
Jojoba (Natural) – cushiony skin feel and less much less greasy compared to heavier natural oils
Broccoli (Natural) – lighter skin feel than most plant oils
Nilotica Shea Butter (Natural): Soft and moisturizing with a silky slip
Coco Caprylate Caprate (Naturally-derived) – light and dry
Olive squalane (Natural) – Soft and silky, medium skin feel
Capric Caprylic Triglyceride (Naturally derived) – Medium Skin feel with good spreading properties
Silk Glide (Synthetic) – Luxurious soft feel with slip. Reduces tackiness in products.
Silicone mix (Synthetic) – A mixture of light – heavy silicones. Does not leave a greasy residue.