Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic ingredients that a bioavailable within the skin. When formulating with Cosmeceuticals, several aspects such as stability, aesthetics and tolerability come into play. Ultimately, achieving this balance is crucial for meeting the needs and expectations of consumers who seek safe, effective, and stable cosmetic products. Actives or cosmeceuticals, have three important characteristics that must always be considered carefully.
- They are active within the skin: in other words, they are doing something! Which means that it has a potential to irritate the sensitive skin. You need to balance the input concentration to be both efficacious and tolerable for the skin.
- They are very particular and sensitive themselves! Basic formulations are usually straightforward and predictable, whereas actives generally require customizing your formulation technique, such as a special pH range, a different solvent than you are used to, additional protection from oxidation, etc.
- They need additional stability measures and can be aesthetically unpleasant: especially with traditional actives like kojic acid, arbutin, etc., they need additional stability measures to keep them efficacious during their determined shelf life. Additionally, a cream that browns over time in the hands of the consumer isn’t desirable and could deter a customer from using the product long enough for results to be seen.
In the rest of this article, I will share tips on how to balance stability, efficacy and aesthetics when formulating cosmeceutical actives
1. Reduce the Irritation Potential of Cosmeceuticals:
Any raw material that can alter the biology of the skin has the potential to irritate the skin. That’s understandable. However, just as all actives do not have the same irritation potential (some are more irritating than others), skin types also differ significantly; what could be irritating to one person may not be to another. While it is nearly impossible to formulate a product that will be just right for everyone, you can reduce the potential for irritation by adding mildness-improving ingredients, such as
Alpha Bisabolol Natural – It is the major active component of chamomile that soothes the skin. It possesses anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, detoxing/purifying, and soothing properties.
Allantoin – It supports the regeneration of damaged skin cells by promoting cell proliferation and wound healing. It is an effective and soothing anti-irritant. It has a potent anti-inflammatory effect on products – by binding itself with irritant and sensitizing agents.
Tremoist – It inhibits fatty acid decomposition which means better barrier function. It also replenishes the lost moisture in the lipid bilayer hence, resuming the cell function. It inhibits transepidermal water loss and reduces itching due to dryness.
2. Customize your Formulation based on the needs of the Cosmeceutical
Customizing the Formulation begins by knowing your active like the back of your hand. Then work backwards to select suitable ingredients. For example, An active like Glycolic acid, which is not just an electrolyte, also has a limited pH range of effectiveness for clinical efficacy; you need to select raw materials that are stable at a pH between 3.0 – 4.0. You will need an electrolyte-resistant rheology modifier and emulsifier for example. This cuts off quite a lot of raw materials like Carbomer for instance! Working backwards prevents frustrating failures, waste and self-doubt. Selecting complementary ingredients intentionally with the active in mind is essential for success. Follow the How-To-Use instructions as well as the Features of the product. When in doubt, ask!
3. Stability & Aesthetics Should always go hand in hand
Stability and Aesthetics should always go hand-in-hand! It’s no use having a very stable product that feels totally undesirable on the skin! You’ll have a hard time getting users to continue using it long enough to see results.
Let us consider several ways a formulator can develop highly effective products without compromising on either stability or aesthetics.
a) Use airtight packaging. A container that protects atmospheric-sensitive cosmecueticals from degradation can keep your formula looking as bright as when you first bottled it.
b) Add chelating agents and antioxidants where necessary. Ingredients such as Activ-Shield or Active Lipid Shield or both! This slows down the incidence of oxidation and discolouration significantly, making your formulation not only aesthetically pleasing but efficacious for a long time.
c) Invest in texture improvement ingredients; Don’t underestimate the power of a sweet-smelling product. Or one that is non-sticky and glides smoothly. Or one that softens and hydrates the skin. All these attributes can keep a user pleased and keep them, waiting patiently for the promised results!
Formulating cosmetic products with cosmeceutical actives requires a thoughtful approach to balancing effectiveness, stability and aesthetics. By prioritizing the proper selection of ingredients, Keeping the irritation potential low, and incorporating a few stability measures, formulators can develop products that deliver the desired results without compromising the skin’s health and comfort.
