DESCRIPTION: Cysteamine HCL has a recognized active with clinical efficacy against melasma and uneven skin tones. It is one of the most potent and safest active ingredients for skin lightening. It is a rinse-off active (Please see SCCS opinions) so it’s not to be left on the skin at any concentration. It has been compared to hydroquinone resulting in higher efficacy. There are two formulation challenges with cysteamine, which make it less common: 1) A scent problem (Add odour-shield to control the smell), and 2) Low stability when exposed to air – The use of airtight packaging or incorporation into an anhydrous formula is advised. Please see features for more details
Cysteamine HCL has multiple mechanisms of action, treating skin darkening during and after production, namely
- Tyrosinase and peroxidase inhibition
- Dopaquinone quenching
- Iron and Copper quenching
- Increase of intercellular glutathione, resulting in a lighter melanin production
- Lightening of stratum corneum melanin to a lighter colour.
One popular product that contains cysteamine HCL is known as Cyspera. In one study, 50 participants were divided into two equal groups, the first group was treated with a modified Kligman’s formula (HQ 4%, retin acid 0.05% beta-methazone 0.01%; once daily in the evening, and left on the skin), while the other half of the group was treated with 5% cyspera cysteamine 5% (once daily, evening, for 15 minutes only). Moisturizers and sunscreens were used during the day. The conclusion was that cysteamine is at least as effective as the Hydroquinone formula and worked in cases resistant to hydroquinone.
FEATURES
- Clinical efficacy at 5.0%
- Strong anti-oxidant
- Treats hyperpigmentation and melasma
- Brightens and lightens the skin tone
- Evens out the skin tone
- Fades dark spots
- Safe alternative to hydroquinone, non-mutagenic, non-carcinogenic and anti-melanoma activities.
- Should be washed off the skin after 15 minutes (max 30 minutes) of application.
- To be used daily until desired results are achieved (or up to 4 months), then 2x weekly for maintenance.
- Can be drying – a good moisturizer should be used after.
- It doesn’t smell nice—adding Odour-shield can significantly reduce the scent. Add both to water and let them sit for a few minutes before adding them to the formulation.
- Requires the use of electrolyte-stable emulsifiers and rheology modifiers.
- The addition of Activ-Shield can help prevent oxidation to help extend its shelf life
APPLICATIONS: In wash-off applications only; emulsions, gels, masks, etc
INCI: Cysteamine HCL.
Use rate: 0.1 – 5.0% (recommended at 5%) Rinse-off formulas ONLY. See more details in the features
Solubility: Water.
pH Stability: 3.5 – 6.5.
Temperature Tolerance: Avoid temperatures above 60°C.
Appearance: White crystalline powder.
Assay: 99% Min
Storage: Store in a cool, dark, and dry place.
This is a cosmetic raw material and is meant for external use only in cosmetic formulations. As with all of our materials, it should not be taken internally. Treasure Actives is not responsible for product compatibility. We advise everyone to test ingredients for performance, compatibility, and safety prior to committing to larger quantities. Keep all products out of reach of children. For more information, please see our terms and conditions page.