As a cosmetic formulator, one of your most important tasks is to stay current with ingredients that can revolutionize your formulations. It’s a primary method to keep a competitive edge. Today, I’d like to explore an ingredient that has been making waves in the skincare world for its potent antioxidant properties – Ferulic Acid.
Ferulic acid is a phytochemical. It’s a plant-derived compound with antioxidant properties. It’s found in the cell walls of various plants like wheat and oats.
The key scientific principles underlying the action of ferulic acid is the concept of oxidation and the damage that can be caused by free radicals (unpaired single electrons residing on a molecule). Oxidation can produce these free radicals. These unstable materials react with normal skin components around them – proteins and cell membranes – which causes them to lose their normal function. It can lead to premature aging of the skin and even various diseases.
Ferulic acid acts as an antioxidant by neutralizing free radicals. Its molecule has an excess of electrons. Free radicals are molecules which are missing an electron; this makes them very unstable, and so they go “on the hunt” for a target molecule from which they can snatch an electron. This damages the target molecule. Ferulic acid can stabilize the free radicals by giving them an electron from its own molecule before the free radical has the chance to steal it from a normal component of the skin. The overall effect is the prevention of oxidative damage to the skin (premature aging). There are a lot of antioxidants on the market, but ferulic acid has a peculiar property: it has unique synergistic effects when combined with other antioxidants.
The synergistic effect of ferulic acid refers to its ability to enhance other antioxidants. As an example, when used in combination with vitamins C and E (both of which are antioxidants), ferulic acid can increase the vitamins’ ability to protect against oxidative damage. Vitamin C covers the water-soluble aspects and Vitamin E, being lipid-soluble, covers the oil-soluble aspects. Combining these two with ferulic acid gives an all-around top performer, and in fact, combination Vitamin C / Vitamin E / ferulic acid serums are a popular skincare product.
As a result of its molecular shape, ferulic acid also has some UV-absorbing capabilities. It can help to transform harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation into heat, which will just dissipate. It also contains anti-inflammatory properties, by inhibiting the production of chemicals which can contribute to inflammation.
So, how best to include ferulic acid in your formulations? The most difficulty you’ll run into is dissolving it. It’s only sparingly soluble in both water and oils. You will probably need to start by adding ferulic acid to propanediol / propylene glycol / ethoxydiglycol, or some similar alcoholic solvent. It might require gentle heating to fully dissolve the ferulic acid. You only need a little bit of the antioxidant, 0.5% to 1%. Once the solution turns clear, you can add it to your formulation. Depending on the other ingredients in your formula, it may take as much solvent as 10x the amount of ferulic acid, or even higher. This has implications for the rest of the formula, and so ferulic acid is normally not found in highly complex products.
Give careful thought to the container properties. As a powerful antioxidant, ferulic acid is vulnerable to degradation when exposed to light and air. Consider carefully how you can house your product in a light-blocking (opaque), air-restrictive (air-less) container to make sure the product remains stable and effective over a long time period. This will give your consumers the longest possible shelf life and opportunity to enjoy your product at its full strength for the longest period of time.
Antioxidants are a crucial part of skincare products. Ferulic acid stands out for its ability to not only stabilize free radicals, but also to encourage other antioxidants present in the formula to perform at their best. This type of ingredient synergy doesn’t happen all the time, so be sure to take advantage of these types of situations when they do arrive. Happy formulating!
Ferulic Acid – Natural
Ferulic acid from rice bran offers the best quality for antioxidant protection and anti-irritation for the skin.
